Friday 19 April 2024

Pics from Poznań

To Poznań for my third business trip of 2024. As with my two January trips to Łódź, I have been focusing on architecture, as it is a city's architecture that most impacts its klimat. Poznań's period under German rule is still visible in its older buildings. Below: Ulica Bukowski 31.


Below: ul Bukowska 32, the building next door, catching some intermittent sunlight between passing clouds. Fancier in style, some Art Nouveau decoration, recessed balconies. Overhead, planes are coming into land at Poznań's Ławica Airport (officially named after some musician or other; can't be bothered to check), which is at the far end of ul. Bukowska.


Below: built in 1902 for Adam Jeski, the sołtys (village elder) of Święty Łazarz, when it was a separate village rather than a part of central Poznań. It's falling apart now, as the developer and the city authorities can't agree as to the provision of car parking. [My view: sod the cars, install bicycle racks.]

Below: plinthed steam locomotive, standing forever outside ... an H. Cegielski Poznań-built Ty51 2-10-0 engine stands outside the Enea stadium. (For a side view, plus photos from Poznań's old town, click here.)


Left: Poznań's most iconic landmark? From the point of view of the city's visitors, it is – my first visits to the city after moving to Poland were all involved with the international trade fair (Międzynarodowe Targi Poznańskie, MTP). The tower at the eastern end of the complex dates back to 1928. The trade fair premises were used as a Focke-Wulf factory during WW2, which led to its bombing by the allies. Rebuilt after the war, MTP remains Poland's premier trade-fair venue. 

Below: Poznań's old post office; as with Szczecin, Opole, Gliwice and other cities of the former Reich, the building was meant to be imposing and project administrative efficiency to the local populace.


Below: the western end of Poznań's sprawling main station, Poland's busiest. Whilst the eastern side of the tracks is now a giant shopping mall, the original entrance to what was Poznań Zachodni station has been retained and renovated. Note the winged wheel on top. This is the Flügelrad, a symbol denoting the railway in common use across German (and then Central and Eastern) railway systems from their earliest days, regardless of operator. 


In September 2022, Poznań Główny had its platforms renumbered in the interests of clarity. Platform 1 is the easternmost; Platform 11 the westernmost. It used to be a confusing jumble (from east to west, the numbers used to run 3, 2, 1, 4, 5, 6, with Platforms 3A, 2A, 1A, 4A and 4B thrown in to make the whole thing more confusing still). Twice I missed connecting trains here, rushing for Track 4 Platform 5 rather than Track 5 Platform 4 or something like that. But still infrastructure operator PKP PLK persists in using track numbers, rather than platform-edge numbers. Below: logically, these should be Platforms 22 and 21, rather than Track (tor) 58 and 56 on Platform (peron) 11. Still confusing. Track numbers are only of value to railway workers.


Below right: the new-style digital timetables dispense with track numbers, on the basis that it's more important to guide passengers to the right platform; once there, they can work out from which track their train will depart. Below left: traditional printed timetable still tells you the platform (top) number, with the track number beneath it. The trouble is, station announcers still state the track number before the platform number. Track numbers must die. They only serve to confuse passengers. 


My trains are all on time in both directions; PKP has improved greatly over the past 26 years since I moved to Poland. The interchange at Warsaw West could be easier (it will be once the new station is completed); and punctually I'm back at Chynów. The evening sun is streaming in. It's good to be back, even after just one night away.


This time two years ago:
Post-Lenten photo catch-up

This time three years ago:
Qualia memories – Edwardian railways

This time eight years ago:

Saturday 13 April 2024

Short catch-up, photos not to be overlooked...

Although cooler, the past few days have seen the blossom continue to explode across the orchards of Chynów, the trees becoming heavier still with flower. Below: the corner of ulica Owocowa (the end of my street that's in Chynów rather than Jakubowizna).


[Update, 15 April. The dandelions are still yellow in the above photo, have already gone to seed outside my house. In this post from 2013, the dandelions are in flower on 8 May, and gone to seed by 17 May. An entire month later.]

Below: my favourite local view, with blossom – looking up from Chynów towards Nowe Grobice and its mobile-telephone antenna tower. A passing patch of sunlight moves swiftly across the land.

Looking up at the sky I saw an airliner heading north-east pass in front of the quarter moon. By the time I'd changed lenses, it had flown by, leaving a condensation trail. I snapped what I saw (below) and decided it was a good image. So I raised the camera back up towards the zenith, and snapped again (second pic below). The two images were made just six seconds apart (at 17:05.09 and 17:05.15 UTC respectively), yet look how much distance has been added between the moon and the contrail in that short space of time. Yes, it's the moon orbiting the earth, but to a greater extent it's the winds in the lower stratosphere pushing the contrail – and yet it maintains its form. (Strong vignetting appears when using Photoshop's autotone function on images taken against the sky.)


Below: heading into town on Friday through Chynów station. The 09:10 limited-stop service takes a mere 35 minutes to get to W-wa Młynów; change there to the Metro, and I can be in the office 15 minutes later. So, działka to office, door to door, is now just 1 hour and five minutes. 


A lucky bonus (below) – while changing trains at W-wa Rakowiec station, I catch this PKP ST48 goods loco/shunter passing through with a single wagon. It was going slowly enough for me to scramble up to the top of the grassy embankment, changes lenses to my 10-20mm Nikkor, and catch the whole scene.


This time last year:
My Trinity

This time two years ago:
Spirit of Place and Metaphysics

This time four years ago:
Lockdown stroll, S7 roadworks

This time five years ago:
Construction updates

This time 11 years ago:
Pigeon infestation by Dworzec Centralny

This time 14 years ago:
Magnolia in bloom, Ealing


Thursday 11 April 2024

Early blossom, Jakubowizna

A hot and early spring this year; no surprise then, that that blossom is already out, nearly three weeks earlier than last year! With perfect skies, I rushed to get all my work done before closing my laptop and going for a walk.

Below: part of my front garden (the orchard side). Forget-me-nots coming up nicely, as are the dandelions. I hope for a better apple harvest than last year.


Below: one of my two cherry trees, heavy with blossom. 


Below: stunningly beautiful under a perfectly cloudless sky, cherries blossom before apples, and fruit far earlier.


Below: my walk takes me mostly between orchards today, to make the most the visual splendour. Out through Adamów Rososki and Machcin, back through Nowe Grobice and Jakubowizna. The perfume of flowers is rich and from time to time, the scent is like walking in the wake of an elegant woman.


Below: a young apple orchard, Machcin. Note the protection around the saplings, to stop deer from nibbling at them.


Below: on the way back, the sun is starting to approach the horizon, sunlight streaming through the blossom. Adamów Rososki.


Below: local state forest, noticeably thinner for all of the logging carried out by the previous government. I expect more responsible use of natural resources now.


Below: eight minutes walk from home, another cherry orchard, Jakubowizna.


Below: field between two orchards, Jakubowizna. Bright yellow from dandelions.


Bonus shot from yesterday, when I walked from home to Krężel station, and caught a train back to Chynów from there. This is a southbound train headed for Radom Główny.


This time six years ago:
Ealing under blue skies

This time ten years ago:
Wes Anderson's Grand Budapest Hotel

This time 11 years ago:
Warsaw 1935: a 3D depiction of a city that's no longer with us

This time 12 years ago:
Cats and awareness

This time 13 years ago:
Why did this happen?

This time 16 years ago:
Britain's grey squirrels turning red

Tuesday 9 April 2024

A family 'what-if' and the soul

A thought struck me in the middle of the night. My father was one of three sons; my mother was one of three daughters. The age-range between the three Dembinski boys and the three Bortnik girls was about the same as the difference between me and my brother. 

What, then, if my parents had had another child – with the statistical probability of the child being a boy – between me (born in October 1957) and Marek (born in January 1963)?

I use Bayesian inference to suggest he would also have been given a Christian name beginning with an 'M' that works reasonably well in Polish as well as in English, so a Marcin/Martin rather than a Mieczysław. As I lay awake in bed, so many questions followed. Had my parents planned for such a family – and planners they were – to replicate their own childhood family structures, how would our lives had shaped up had a Marcin been born in late 1960? 

Would a third child have prompted an earlier house move – to a bigger house in a shabbier neighbourhood maybe – or would the extra expenditure on food (clothing being passed down) delayed a house move? Would Marcin have passed his Eleven Plus exam and gone to a grammar school as I did (by the time Marek finished primary school, selective education had been replaced by the comprehensive system)? And which university would he have chosen?

I'm sure Marcin would also have been an 'Airfix boy', as Marek and I were, as well as joining the Polish scouts and going to Polish Saturday school. But would he have felt more Polish (as I did) or more British (as Marek did)? And where would Marcin have ended up living? Stoke-on-Trent or Sopot?

What would Marcin be like? Any extraordinary powers? A gifted musician, for example? A great chess player? Left- or right-brain-hemisphere dominance? On the autism spectrum or struggling with attention deficit? Or a bit of both? Slightly taller than Marek but slightly shorter than me? What about family dynamics? Would I, as a two-year-old, have been as jealous of Marcin's birth as Moni was of her brother being born when she was that age? (As it was, by the time Marek was born, I was already at primary school and a baby brother was a minor distraction rather than a rival for my parents' love.) Would Marcin have grown up siding more with me against Marek, or with Marek against me? 

And had there been a Marcin, would Marek have been different? Well of course! Far more different to how he is than how different I would have been to how I am, given the effect of male hormones in the womb after successive pregnancies; birth order is significant.

I have often pondered on whom I'd have been had my parents never met. Intuitively, my answer is – different ego, same consciousness. Different parents, different body; but fundamentally I'd have been the same register of qualia, experiencing the same anomalous qualia memories from another time and another place, with the same spiritual purpose. A different biology, and thus, a different personality, hence a different ego. A different biological container for an eternal consciousness, on its journey from Zero to One; a different shell of foam. Consciousness is key.

This time five years ago:
No God for those that don't believe; God for those that do

This time six years ago:
Work proceeding around Jeziorki

This time seven years ago:
Karczunkowska reopens to traffic

This time 12 years ago:
Goodness gracious!

This time 13 years ago:
Muddy feet, Warsaw 'pavements'

This time 14 years ago:
Cycling and recycling

This time 15 years ago:
Winter clings on to the forest

This time 16 years ago:
Toyota launches the iQ

This time 17 years ago:
Old school Łódź

Monday 8 April 2024

Local elections, Poland, 2024 (Pt II)

As it happened, despite what I observed at Polling Station No. 626 (primary school on ulica Sarabandy), the overall turnout across Poland was disappointingly low at 51% (far lower than the 74% in last autumn’s parliamentary vote). In Jeziorki, turnout was 64%.

Warsaw's Rafał Trzaskowski won 57.4%, a resounding first-round victory for a popular mayor. He was one of four big-city mayors who won in the first round, along with the incumbents in Łódź, Gdańsk and Katowice. Other than Katowice’s mayor, a local independent, these are all Civic Coalition (KO) members. 

Kraków, Wrocław and Poznań will require a second round of mayoral elections as no candidate received more than 50% of the vote; the second-round mayoral elections will be on Sunday 21 April. 

In a result mirroring October’s parliamentary election, PiS won the largest vote share (34.3%) but lost power overall. KO won 30.6%, Trzecia Droga won 14.3%,  Konfederacja/Bezpartyjni Samorządowcy 7.2% and Lewica 6.3%. Trzecia Droga (including PSL, the agrarian party) really should have done better. The brand, now established as a part of the government coalition, was expected to push PiS aside across rural Poland, but failed to do that. Lewica was the real loser of these elections, maybe because so few young people bothered to vote. This will weaken them within the governing coalition, of which they are the junior party.

The next few days will see deals being made between parties at voivodship level to determine who will have overall control of them. Despite winning a higher vote share, PiS is likely to lose power in two or three voivodships, leaving the party with a majority in six of the 16 local parliaments (sejmiki), in the south-east corner of Poland. 

Once the deals have been made and the constitution of all local councils is known, there will be a clearer picture as to what effect the local elections will have on citizens' lives on a day-to-day level. 

I am a great believer in the influence of local governments in shaping quality of life. Environmental quality (air quality, waste collection and recycling, traffic management, public transport). Poland today has advanced hugely over the country to which I moved in 1997, to the benefit of all in the above regards. I'd like to see better public transport, less dumping of household waste and litter, better air quality (less burning crap to warm houses), and more provision of pavements and footpaths for pedestrians. 

Compared to the UK, where local taxes ('rates') are astronomical, Polish land tax is laughably low, although this is augmented by income tax, which is collected locally and remains with the local authority in which you are registered. Corporation tax and VAT are collected and spent at the national level. 

Next up will be the European parliamentary elections – I hope these are taken seriously by Poles young and old, and that populism will not be given a free hand because of indifference and complacency.

This time seven years ago:
Conscious prayer

This time nine years ago:
History repeating - or is it?

This time 11 years ago:
Sunshine, snow, April

This time 13 years ago:
In vino veritas

This time 14 years ago:
Are we getting more intelligent?

This time 15 years ago:
Lenten recipe No. 6

This time 16 years ago:
Coal trains, Konstancin-Jeziorna

This time 17 years ago:
Jeziorki from the air

Sunday 7 April 2024

Local elections, Poland, 2024

This morning I travelled into Jeziorki to cast my votes in the Polish local elections. Four ballot slips – for Mayor of Warsaw, the Warsaw city council, the Ursynów district council, and the Mazovia provincial parliament. Polish democracy is alive and well; the polling station was full, maybe not as full as at the national parliamentary elections in October. Maybe of all the elections I have voted in since moving to Poland, this had the second-highest turnout. People with ballot papers were standing around waiting for a table to fill in the ballot papers. There were as many young people as old people voting, and the atmosphere was more festive than in October when voters were eyeing each other thinking "is he/she going to vote for the existential threat that is my political enemy?"

Today, in the spring sunshine, knowing that there's less at stake than the future of Poland (more autocratic or less autocratic?), the electorate still turned up en masse to take part in the due process of democracy. On the agenda today were bus lanes, rubbish collection and local infrastructure, rather than rule of law, women's rights and macroeconomic policy. Just as important to the way we live our lives.

Some local observations, then. Central Warsaw is booming. A modern, prosperous, safe, clean city (according to visiting Londoners), which has witnessed phenomenal growth. Mayor Rafał Trzaskowski was comfortably re-elected for a second term. Warsaw's outer suburbs – a story of sprawl. New estates, lacking in amenities, lacking even in asphalted roads in and out. No public transport, so everyone's condemned to car use, and cars are choking outer Warsaw. "We can't afford to live in Warsaw, because we've got the upkeep of two cars to pay for," is a usual moan. The idea of living in Warsaw, well-connected with public transport, but without a car, is too much of a stretch for most.

Further out, in Chynów, the pre-election campaigning, visible in the form of banners stretched out on fences, showed a strong preference for PSL, the agrarian party, now part of the PL2050 coalition. Posters and banners for PiS came second. Interestingly, a number of PSL banners were slashed – across the faces of the candidates. 

Decisions made at local level include planning permission, environmental protection, water, sewage and waste management, traffic management; these are all responsibilities of the gminas (municipalities).  At the poviat (district) level, powers include public transport, maintenance of district roads, land surveying and the issuing of work permits to foreigners. Powers at voivodship level are shared between the voivode (governor) appointed centrally by the prime minister; the sejmik (regional assembly) and the marshal, serving as the provincial chief executive. The voivode acts as the head of central government institutions at regional level (such as the police and fire services, passport offices, and various inspectorates). The sejmik passes by-laws, including the voivodship's development strategies and budget. It also elects the marshal and other members of the executive, and holds them to account. The executive, headed by the marshal, drafts the budget and development strategies, implements the resolutions of the sejmik, and deals with regional policy, including management of EU funding. 

Results tomorrow.

This time five years ago:
Morning flashback

This time eight years ago:
In which I learn to speak

This time nine years ago:
Sunshine and snow, Łazienki Park

This time ten years ago:
Shopping habits in the wake of Lidl's opening 

This time 11 years ago:
In vino veritas

This time 12 years ago:
Are we getting more intelligent?

This time 13 years ago:
Lenten recipe No. 6

This time 14 years ago:
Coal trains, Konstancin-Jeziorna

This time 15 years ago:
Jeziorki from the air

Saturday 6 April 2024

Budy Sułkowskie

Last year I wrote about the new road bridge over the river Czarna between Sułkowice and Gabryelin, and this January, I took a walk over the wetlands along the Czarna when they froze over. After the bridge was built, a new hardened road, made of paving stones rather than asphalt, was laid along the southern edge of the village of Ławki. Local maps have been redrawn to show at last something more than a muddy track leading Budy Sułkowskie, which maintains the picturesque and timeless charm of a Mazovian village now most lost to development and progress.

This is ulica Cicha (literally, 'Quiet Street') in the village of Budy Sułkowskie. The word budy is the plural of buda, which means 'hut' or 'shed' or 'shack' – and is not a complimentary term in the context of a group of buildings.  As the result of a referendum held in 2016, Budy Sułkowskie have been incorporated into the much larger village of Sułkowice to the south, home to the famous police-dog training centre. Wooden cottages and barns, agricultural machinery, narrow fields.


Below: looking along the newly-hardened road. I wonder whether paving stones are cheaper to lay than asphalt for such a long stretch. To the right, fenced off, recreational działki in Ławki, and to the left, agriculture in Budy Sułkowskie.


Below: in January, these wetlands were solid frozen; today I wet my socks wading through here, worth it though, to experience this marshy land transitioning swiftly into spring mode. I caught sight of a swan through the the reeds. In the distance, the Warsaw-Radom railway line.


Left: progress was slow, though the water was not deep. In the distance, the rail bridge over the Czarna river, pictured below. The bridge has steps at either end and a walkway separated from the tracks. I sit down on the steps, take off my boots and socks, draining the former and wringing the latter. My feet are dry by the time I enter Sułkowice. A Koleje Mazowieckie train heads north for Warsaw.



Left: there's no official way to enter Sułkowice station from the north end of the 'down' platform. Unlike Ustanówek or Zalesie Górne or Piaseczno stations, where PKP PLK built  proper access at both ends, here, local unofficial solutions are needed. Planks over the ditch between track and footpath, and wooden steps help passengers up to platform level. I don't understand PKP PLK's policy – some stations get access, others don't. For people living north of Sułkowice station, the official way round is a four-to-seven-minute detour, walking along a road without a pavement or street lights.

Below: back at Chynów. Short hop by train, ticket cost me 2.73zł, or 54p (with my 30% over 60s' discount). Another northbound Koleje Mazowieckie train pulls into the station. The trains are frequent, reliable and inexpensive.


It warmed up nicely today; I set off at 14:00 wearing a shirt and leather jacket – after half an hour's walk I had to take the jacket off and stow it in my rucksack. A westerly breeze added to the comfort level. 

This time five years ago:
Działka remont update

This time six years ago:
Łódź is a film set

This time seven years ago
Contemplative imagery, Ealing and Warsaw

This time 12 years ago:
Baffled: my first visit to Jeziorki's Lidl 

This time 13 years ago:
In vino veritas?

This time 14 two years ago:
Are we getting more intelligent?

This time 15 years ago:
Lenten recipe: tuna, chickpea and pesto salad

This time 16 years ago:
Coal train sidings, Konstancin-Jeziorna

This time 16 years ago:
Jeziorki from the air

Tuesday 2 April 2024

Summer in early spring

Yesterday - 1 April 2024, the temperature hit 24C. Third hot day in a row. Indeed, on Easter Sunday, the maximum temperature in Warsaw was 25.8C, the highest ever recorded in March. Temperature records are falling with alarming regularity.

Out on a post-Easter walk (15,000 paces), I walked into Chynów bought myself a tin of cold beer at the Moja petrol station, and then back along ulica Spokojna until I reached the pine forest. Beer is unbeatable for quenching thirst on a hot day. Far superior to a sugary fizzy drink or even water. Following the forest's edge, I found a spot at the far end. I pulled out the waterproof jacket from my rucksack and sat down on it, over a bed of dry needles with my back rested on a pine tree to enjoy some feldalkohol – my first since Ash Wednesday. A glorious, meditative, experience. Twigs, branches, moss, warmth, a bumblebee the size of a hazelnut buzzes around me inquisitively. Bliss to be alive. An exquisite joy.


Left: April has just started; this weather is perfect. Summer in April. (But what does this presage for August? Record highs of over 40C?)

In the meanwhile, the sky is clear, no breeze. Bird song. Blackbirds, larks, a cuckoo, the staccato tapping of a distant woodpecker. A buzzard circles over the field between the forest and orchard.

Below: looking across the forest towards ul. Spokojna. All of a sudden, I am minded of the film Ukraine: Enemy in the Woods,  filmed, produced and directed by Jamie Roberts (thanks for the recommendation, Marek!). Here in the forest, peace, warmth, a time for contemplation. Eight hundred miles to the east in Kupiansk, Ukrainians are fighting for their homeland, and indeed for the security of Europe. I am deeply grateful to every one of them and pray for their safety in the bunkers and trenchs of the front line.

Here in Chynów, there's no artillery, no shell-bursts, no toppling trees, no drones buzzing overhead, no Russian soldiers advancing through the wood. Peace and quiet. May it stay this way.


The poignant moment passes; time to get up and walk home. Lent is over; summer is coming – anticipating the warmth and light is the best part of it.


The clocks went forward on Saturday night, on Easter morning. How does one deal with the spring time change? The autumn one is easy – just ignore it. Go to bed an hour early, wake up an hour early. Don't accept that extra hour in bed that they seductively offer us. An 11pm-7am sleep becomes an 10pm-6am sleep. 

But what happens in spring? It's not as easy as going back to 11pm to 7am, because we've slipped back to that routine over the five months of wintertime. So midnight to 8am? Tough if you need to be in the office by 9am! And anyway, in autumn, the days are shrinking, nights are long, so where you place your eight hours of sleep is not that important. 

But now, the days are getting longer; we'll gain almost another two hours in the evening and another two hours in the morning before the summer solstice. You wake up late, realise you've lost a precious hour of daylight and feel guilty about it all day long.

So – after a second night of going to bed after midnight and then waking up after 8am, I decide that the best way of dealing with the spring time-change should be the same as for the autumn time change. Go to bed an hour earlier. This is both counter-intuitive and unnatural, but at least daylight is optimised.

The clocks going back result in many extra cases of seasonal affective disorder; the clocks going forward result is many extra cases of heart attacks (Google Gemini tells me: "The American Heart Association cites a study showing a possible 24% rise in heart attacks the Monday following the spring time change. A Michigan study found a similar increase in heart attacks on that same day.") Take it easy!

This time five years ago:
Can't find peace of mind

This time six years ago:
On Learning and Living

This time eight years ago:
Goats and hares

This time nine years ago:
Białystok the Dull

This time 16 years ago:
Crushed velvet dusk in my City of Dreams

This time 17 years ago:
My second Jeziorki blog post, also from this day